Cartier's Le Tank Watch Turns 100!

Dreamed by mortals, worn by legends – the appeal of Cartier’s Tank watch transcends generations and genders throughout the century. 

A pop culture icon in its own right, its unique shape – neither rectangular nor square – is oftentimes unmissable and caused a huge sensation within the sphere of watchmaking for it was destined to be worn on the wrist.

The history of Tank watch can be traced as early as 1904, when Cartier watchmaking enjoyed a booming trade. With the passing of Queen Victoria in 1901 put an end to the Victorian period and paved a way to the Baroque-esque Art Nouveau movement, jeweller and forefather of the “Jeweller of Kings” Louis Cartier chose not to tread on the current trend.

Instead, he developed his own jewellery style by characterising the pieces with clean geometrical lines and abstract forms. Not only it became part of Cartier’s watchmaking identity throughout the later years, the feat subsequently pioneered a new art movement that was soon known as Art Deco. 

Subsequently, the Tank’s distinctive design is also widely referenced by other watchmakers, too! And if you wonder where the name Tank came from, the story has it that the Cartier modelled the watch design on the top view of an artillery tank: the brancards (the parallel and vertical bars on the side of the Tank) evoked the treads whilst the case represents the vehicle cockpit.

Beginning with a single design, within the span of 100 years, the Tank has spawned several permutations such as Tank Louis Cartier, Tank Française, Tank Americaine, and Tank Cintrée. Of all the Tank variations, the Tank Cintrée stands out the most, thanks to its unique skeletal dial. 

The watch’s skeleton movement is made to follow the curves of the case and its transparent design preserves the bare essentials, all contained within its distinctive curve.  Though each permutation may be distinctive from one another, yet the fundamental aesthetics that conjured the Tank identity such as the unmistakable Roman numerals on the dial, double lines that represent the chapter ring called Chemin de Fer and the winding crown that is either beaded or faceted and set in sapphire cabochon remains.  

As people always say, “Great minds think alike”, it can also be said that visionaries, wunderkinds and icons do share the same taste. From the time of the Tank’s inception to the present day, the Tank watch has been a favourite among the well-known such as French silver screen siren Catherine Deneuve and fashion icon, the late Princess Diana. 

Take renowned Hollywood silver screen “Romeo” and actor Rudolph Valentino, whose role as an Arabian sheikh in George Fitzmaurice's The Son of the Sheik propelled him to global stardom, for instance. Albeit one would find it awkward to watch a period movie with an Arab nobleman or merchant spotting a contemporary wristwatch, the actor indeed ignored the odds. 

The story has it that he (Valentino) demanded to the director that he will be allowed to wear his Tank watch in every scene of the film. Perhaps driven by the actor’s courage or – probably – his ability to make women faint in droves at the cinemas, the director green-lighted his demand. And that ladies and gentlemen, marked the Tank’s first foray into the cinematic sphere.

On the other hand, telling time was not the main purpose why the Tank was strapped on the wrist of Pop Art visionary Andy Warhol. The auteur who is known for his silkscreen prints of Marilyn Monroe, Elizabeth Taylor, Diane von Furstenberg and Campbell’s Tomato Soup can said in an interview, “I really don’t wear it to tell the time…” 

Well, could it be because of the Tank’s design aesthetic that runs away from the archetypal rounded-shaped wristwatches? Or maybe because he was smitten by the similarity between him and Cartier – pioneers of new art movement? Perhaps, only Andy has the answer!

From past to present, technology moves in parallel with time. To today’s technology-savvy generation, life-easing, app-laden gadgets like the smartphones, Apple and Android watches are no longer luxuries but necessities and iconic timepieces like Tank are lacking of it. Add in the occasionally meticulous care and maintenance into the account, getting a Tank is not a feasible option.

Yet, the conviction is absolute and clear: none of the technology-driven timepieces can beat the appeal of Cartier Tank when it comes to owning a sentimental symbol of status and contemporary elegance. 

And any enthusiastic horlogerie connoisseur can attest to that: Its universal silhouette that is neither masculine nor feminine and the form that syncs with function are the pulling factors why even today’s generation can fall easily under its spell. Perhaps, this may be what Louis Cartier had in mind when he envisioned it – a universal timepiece that stands by the time. Bon anniversaire le Tank, cher!

*Photos by Jean-Jacques Lapeyronnie/Gamma; United Artists, coll Sunset Boulevard; The Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts, Inc.;  Jean-Charles de Castelbajac; Eric Sauvage. All courtesy of Cartier.

Cartier - Lot No. 3.14.00 Level 3, Pavilion Kuala Lumpur, 168,Jalan Bukit Bintang, 55100 Kuala Lumpur