The Cool Clashing of Influences .. Gucci SS2015 Collection

The moment Frida Giannini set her models off the runway during the recent spring/summer 2015 womenswear show; I could immediately imagine how immaculate the first look — white jacket and skirt ensemble laden with polished, gilded buttons, a Gucci foulard around the neck and a sling bag — would look like on Charlotte Casiraghi.

Why Casiraghi? Well, to be honest, I had a feeling that the spring/summer 2015 looks were built around the accomplished equestrienne’s sense of style. 

She may not be of that typical French gamine or nymphet type, just like French style ambassadors and icons Ines de la Fressange and Vanessa Paradis.

Yet, the Monegasque beauty still has a strong je ne sais quoi as well as natural beauty, inherited from her iconic late grandmother, former Hollywood silver screen siren and consort to the late Prince Rainier of Monaco, the Serene Highness Princess Grace of Monaco, or globally known as Grace Kelly.

Unlike the previous spring/summer collection which runs on a single theme and inspiration — the art nouveau-esque floral illustrations by Erté — the 2015 edition boasts diverse mishmash of ideas drawn from the extensive archive of Gucci, Frida’s love of rock n’ roll music and traditional oriental nuances. Practical pieces made out of fabrics in neutral colours with matte surface serve as introduction to the spring/summer 2015 collection.

Hints of 70s dressing still loom large in Frida’s offering for Gucci. Most probably inspired by the Gucci archive, the pieces are imbued with simplicity and effortlessness. 

Case in point: Suede trench coat embellished with heavy gilded buttons and leather sling bag with Guccissima print canvas flap and tricolour strap. At a glance, it evokes the look of a working girl that is on her way to catch a train down the subway, or perhaps, a young model that is on a hurry for her go-see.

To spice up the nuance of straightforwardness, intricate yet subtle detailing such as embroidered bib and eyelets with crisscrossing grosgrain ribbons are added into the some of the prêt-a-porter pieces. 

There are also pieces in denim such as a rugged dress with crisscross grosgrain ribbon tie-front, a double-breasted military jacket and relaxed front pleat trousers.

In the second change, Frida amplifies the heat of the show with her rock n’ roll- and bohemian-inspired pieces. Luxurious pelts such as soft mohair are married with rich embellishments and python skin trim to create a gilet that’s worthy of a rock star wardrobe.

Bohemian influence appears in the form of printed blouson with crisscross grosgrain ribbon and worn with suede jodhpurs and heavily appliquéd dress with above-the-knee hemming. 

There are also touches of military elements such as drummer jacket with glistening embellishing and intricate buttons inspired by the drummer boy coats.

Leather and exotic skins, which are part and parcel of Gucci design DNA are used to craft out exquisite pieces such as collared dress with intricate embroidery work and crisscross grosgrain ribbon as well as a chic python skin skirt and jacket ensemble that appeals to the rock chicks. In the evening wear section, oriental prints adorn the dresses and complemented with heavy embellished trimmings.

Absent from the collection for the upcoming season are long, airy dresses with mile-long trains that are often reserved for red-carpet events. In a way, for the upcoming spring/summer collection, Frida has put a strong emphasis on practicality and functionality with slight attention to aesthetics and balanced opulence.

Suede footwear and strappy sandals in luscious crocodile skin complement the looks, alongside the iconic Jackie bags that are crafted from buttery soft leather and suede, sling bags and gilded horsebit bracelets.

Gucci spring/summer 2015 ready-to-wear and accessories will be available at selected Gucci stores, fine departmental stores and multi-brand boutiques around the world next year.

*Photos courtesy of Gucci

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