Saturday, 20 September 2014

Reimagining and Rejuxtaposing the 70s ... Prada SS2015 Collection

When Nostradamus revealed his earth-trembling predictions dating back to more than 500 years ago, rest assured he had forgotten to include one prophecy that will forever alter the way we look at fashion: The inevitable 70s  silhouettes and styles will make a huge comeback and remain indefinitely in the fashion sphere until further notice.

For spring/summer 2015, top stitching is the order of the day at Prada. And when we see top stitching, there is a great probability that Prada might have garnered her inspiration from the 70s looks, especially pieces that are crafted in denim. 

Think American model and actress Ali MacGraw as her personal style, when we looked back in the archives when she reigned supreme as both editorial and silver screen deity, truly personified the spirit of the nonchalant collection. After all, like Farrah Fawcett and Anjelica Huston, Ali was the prominent face of the 70s.   

Mounds of purplish sand formed whimsical desert dunes within an enclosed space at the Prada fashion show venue. According to AMO, the space decorator and builder, the space evokes a set of questions that touches on the relationship between outdoors and indoors: Is it a cave, a desert or an indoor playground? Nevertheless, the intriguing and questionable setting of the show could not match fashionistas’ joyous reaction when Australian model Gemma Ward opened the runway show.

Ward, a Perth native who took a long hiatus from fashion modelling to pour in more focus to her acting and giving birth to her first child Naia in December last year, strut on the quirky runway in a black, topstitched double-breasted long coat with frayed sleeves. 

Underneath the coat, Ward wore a matching dress with orange-coloured topstitching and subtly frayed collar. She also paired knee-length silky stocking with trompe l’oeil floral print appliqué with two-toned Mary Janes on low-levelled platforms with studs and topstitch detailing.

Almost all pieces are complemented with stop stitches, providing crisp and rugged look to the collection. In a way, the collection also echoes the glory of 70s fashion that looms large till today.  

The topstitching detail too may delight women with curves as the topstitched panelling provides beautiful illusion to their body contour. Case in point: A black knee-length shift with frayed standing collar adorned with topstitches and asymmetrical translucent sequined lace panelling on the sides. Booties with colourful geometrical appliqué punctuate the minimalist look.  

Apart from the 70s nuances, Prada also adopts hints of folk dressing and juxtaposes different fabrics to create distinctive pieces. For example, a classic long-sleeved dress with below-the-knee full skirt gives folk dressing a tinge of modernity. Sequinned fabric makes up the lower bodice of the dress while strips of leather and brocade fabric in oriental prints spice up the full skirt, giving it an edgy yet cosmopolitan look.

Amalgamating earthy tones with spring-appropriate colours such as green, yellow, purple and blue, Prada added a hint of the Orient with an eastern-influenced quilted coat that combines pieces of fabrics doused with oriental floral prints. 

At a glance, the coat has a close semblance to the traditional Nyonya Kebarung – a garment that is usually worn by women of the Straits Chinese ancestry in Malaysia and Singapore. Underneath, a printed top with frayed hemming and collar is paired with a plain knee-length pencil skirt with topstitch details on the sides.

Being an Italian fashion maison, leather plays an integral part within Prada’s design DNA structure. 

Apart from coats that are perfect to purvey some warmth at the chilly start of the spring, the leather pieces are also creatively treated with the application of floral fabric appliqués to soften its tough appeal. 

As for the accessories, drop earrings, structured leather bags in glossy leathers and framed purse in polished crocodile leather in earthy colours truly embody the idea of “less is more”.

Prada spring/summer 2015 prêt-a-porter and accessories collection will be available at all Prada stores and selected departmental stores and multi-brand stores worldwide next year.





*Photos courtesy of Prada

Prada - Lot 2.22.00 & 3.24.00, Level 2 & 3, Pavilion Kuala Lumpur, 168, Jalan Bukit Bintang, 55100 Kuala Lumpur; G31, Ground Level, Suria KLCC, Jalan Ampang, 50088, Kuala Lumpur

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