Monday, 29 September 2014

An Artistic Approach to Functionality ... Loewe SS2015 Collection

Bringing a young blood such as Jonathan Anderson to navigate Loewe’s creative direction was a great move ever taken by the Iberian fashion house. 

Brimming with fresh and novel ideas, the Northern Irish designer has taken Loewe to a greater level within the fashion sphere, starting with revolutionising its brand identity, followed by the launch of its extremely well-received capsule collection. 

Just months after the presentation of the menswear collection for spring/summer 2015, fashion editors and buyers converged in Paris once again to witness the debut of Loewe’s womenswear and accessories for spring/summer 2015 – the first by Anderson.

Set in a minimalist setting, guests were feted with a total of 37 looks, meticulously designed and put together by the designer and his design team. 

Unlike his predecessors Stuart Vevers, Jose Enrique Oña Selfa and Narciso Rodriguez, Anderson’s approach on the womenswear is not only distinctive but also refreshing with stronger appeal towards the younger market segment.

The pieces are non-constricting and non-conforming, hence imparting liberty of movement to the body. Doused in a mix of pastel and bright colours with hints of earthly tones, organic lines and shapes dominate the pieces. Rather than being constructed, most of the clothes are pieced together like collage.

For example, the show was opened by a pieced-together long dress in earthy tone with tattered leathers are attached to the neckline and extends to the shoulders that if seen from far, it would have conjured the idea of a wearable wax paper collage.

But there are at times when one could simply sum it up as Anderson’s reinterpretation of the classic Spanish flamenco dress due to the ruffled details that adorn the dress.

Also at a glance, it is also not surprising if there were fashion editors who would equal the dresses that were pieced together using tattered pieces of suede leather – perhaps an allusion to Loewe’s highly celebrated icon the Amazona – to that of Lady Gaga’s legendary meat dress that shocked the world and most bizarrely, Cher, during the MTV VMA Awards not long ago. Suede aside, similar styles are also crafted in fabrics that are spring/summer-friendly.

In line with house’s heritage, Anderson utilises leather as the major working material. Tinged in various permutations of colours and surface treatments, he liberally toyed with unconventional ideas, tweaking and twisting the material to create non-conformist yet wearable pieces that will certainly bring forth new definition of a Loewe woman: Adventurous, bold, sophisticated and intuitive.  

Besides the pieced-together dresses and ensembles, knits play an integral part in the collection. They are chunky in texture and fashioned into laidback pieces such as halter knit and fabric dress, sleeveless turtleneck sweater with asymmetrical hemming paired with slouchy pyjama pants with large knot detailing on the waist and a bib top layered atop an off-shoulder long-sleeved cuffed top. Scrupulous crafting is perhaps one of Anderson’s most notable fortes as every piece is thoughtfully conceived with great technical approach.

Setting a new trend for Loewe for the new season to come is the slouchy leather pants with high waistline and sash.  

The trousers go well with almost everything, from a simple t-shirt with romantic oil painting print to optical print woven boat neck top, knitted sweaters with leather appliqués and slit between lower torso and billowy long-sleeved top in twisted fabric treatment. 

Even a suede trench coat with rich velvety surface looks fabulous when it is paired with the trousers.   

For accessories, bags in iconic silhouettes such as the Amazona, Flamenco and Z purse, just to list a few, are crafted out of suede and buttery soft leather. 

Also spotted during the show is perhaps, a new addition to the Loewe family of bags, featuring asymmetrical approach on the polygon shapes. These stunning carriers are then matched with footwear such as flats and pumps splashed in plethora of colours, necklace made out of tattered leather patches in bright hues and a large folded fan.

Loewe spring/summer 2015 womenswear and accessories collection will be available at selected Loewe stores and multi-brand boutiques worldwide starting next year. 











*Photos courtesy of Loewe

Loewe - Lot. 2.35.01, Level 2, Pavilion Kuala Lumpur, No. 168, Jalan Bukit Bintang, 55100 Kuala Lumpur.       

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