Saturday, 5 July 2014

Jonathan Anderson debuts SS2015 Menswear Collection for Loewe

Mention Spain and what comes to mind? Wines and sherry? Checked. The luscious Valencia oranges? Checked. The sensuous move of the flamenco dance? Checked. Fashion forward sisters Penelope and Monica Cruz? Checked and checked. And the emblematic tapas? Absolutely checked. 

Nevertheless, it seems that one more icon is missing from the checklist and this icon is considered Spain’s most precious and treasured gift to the high fashion world. That icon is none other than Loewe.

Founded in 1846 as a cooperative of leather artisans in the centre of Madrid, Loewe’s ascend to fame as one of the world’s original luxury houses began in 1872 when German entrepreneur Enrique Loewe Roessberg consolidated the workshop under his name. 

For 163 years, Loewe has been synonymous with meticulously crafted and luxurious leather goods with clientele base ranges from the Royal household of Spain to the most discerning fashionista in five different continents of the world.

Take a stroll around the chic streets of the world. From Madrid to Paris, Tokyo to Kuala Lumpur, you will find an army of immaculately dressed ladies toting Amazona bags — one of Loewe’s highly celebrated icons in the fashion world — in various permutations of hides and colours. 

Even the ready-to-wear collections churned by the casa de Loewe through its previous creative directors — Belgian Spanish designer Jose Enrique Oña Selfa and British fashion maestro Stuart Vevers — had garnered critical acclaims from fashion editors and fans alike.

In 2013, Loewe welcomed new dawn; a beginning to a new era with the appointment of British designer Jonathan Anderson or famously known among the fashion circuit as JW Anderson. 

Known as a promising young designer whose works have received rave reviews from the global fashion press, as well as having a legion of fans, Anderson’s entrance into the casa certainly brought a lease of fresh air to the 163-year old brand. 

Starting with the restyling of Loewe’s iconic anagram that was first designed by artist Vicente Vela in 1970 to the revamping of its packaging by switching the dark brown milieu to whitewash, Anderson employed novel moves that were not utilised by its previous creative directors.  

Recently, in conjunction with the menswear fashion week for spring/summer 2015, Anderson showcased his first ready-to-wear collection for men at Saint Sulpice in Paris. Just like the past years, Paris has been a platform for Loewe to showcase its ready-to-wear collection, albeit being based in the Spanish capital of Madrid.

Using novel format that resembles more to an exhibition rather than a traditional fashion presentation, Anderson showcased his products as objects that reflect a fundamental belief: as a boundary between art and trade erodes, the relevance of fashion has shifted towards culture. In a way, while the pieces are created as artifacts worth admiring, they are also meant to be sold and worn.

In Anderson’s definition, the spring/summer 2015 menswear collection is a take on hyper-normality. It is realistic, functional and utterly desirable. Men wardrobe essentials jumpers, shirts, trousers, coats, scarves — become extraordinary pieces, thanks to the ingenious design with thoughtful and sometimes unexpected detailing imbued with a unique point of view.  

Daily wears such as jackets, jeans, and t-shirts bring forth an emphasis on natural yet confident attitude while fashion-forward pieces such as biker jacket and a trench coat are revisited to maximise their aesthetic and functionality in terms of softness, cut and performance. 

Anderson also added a tinge of his British heritage in the form of selected items reinterpreted into the shapes and colours of the British construction game Meccano. 

However, the design DNA of Loewe is also present in this collection through the brand’s signature Oro hue, besides employing working palette of earthy olives and neutral sands to rich camels and deep greens, as well as basic blacks and bold blues.

Differing from its past collections, Anderson utilises high-grade materials and innovative techniques that satisfies Loewe’s standard of excellence. Think a waterproof parka in the softest lamb napa imaginable, built to withstand years of heavy use.

In a way, Anderson’s debut menswear collection for Loewe reshapes or redefines the new meaning of luxury and rather than following the trends, his designs are certainly made to last — an appropriate collection for trying time like this.

Loewe spring/summer 2015 ready-to-wear and accessories collection for men will be available at selected Loewe stores worldwide early next year. 


 





*Photos courtesy of Loewe

Loewe - Lot. 2.35.01, Level 2, Pavilion Kuala Lumpur, No. 168, Jalan Bukit Bintang, 55100 Kuala Lumpur

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