At the front row, A-list celebrities such as Rihanna who looked gorgeous in fiery red coat over a boudoir-worthy satin dress with garters; perpetual style icon Marisa Berenson toted a Lady Dior handbag (well, almost everyone was seen carrying the iconic carrier during the show); and Anna dello Russo swathed in palette of outrageous colours gathered at the front row, were all anxiously anticipating for what Raf Simons has in store for avid Dior fans.
The show started off with a selection of coats, effortlessly tailored in contemporary style, breathing hints of menswear tailoring nuances. Underneath the long coats are double-breasted blazers layered over dresses or shirt-and-pants ensemble.
For the fall/winter collection, Simons juxtaposed a spectrum of materials such as wool, cashmere, silk and flannel with a working palette of monotonous and bright colours. Flannel dominates the pantsuits, meticulously cut and constructed to flatter the feminine body shapes while wool provides basis to the luxurious coats, either long or short.
To balance off the menswear approach is a coterie of fluid dresses with a hint of volume underneath the skirt, resembling blossoming petals. There are also dresses that amalgamate two distinctive silhouettes ― a shift underneath a V-neck ― in contrasting colours with asymmetrical cut-outs, bringing sensuality and elegance together fluently.
Dior’s design DNA is also present in the forms of subtle detailing such as quilting ― usually sported on almost all Dior handbags and leather accessories ― as seen on the bodice of a dark navy and fluorescent pink silk dress as well as a dark navy silk dress with long sleeves.
Another inevitably Dior design DNA feature, which is the “Bar” dress gets a chic embroidery treatment in the form of laced trails and floral arrangement, as well as different interpretations for shoulders.
Adding some outstanding punch to the fall/winter looks are the presence of sleeveless mink coats dyed in fascinating hues of green and yellow.
More colours were injected into the collection as the show progressed with a collection of dresses amplified with billowy skirts with curved hemlines; a plethora of sleeveless coats in graphic colour blocks; and a simple off white wool dress with embroidered detailing paired with a pair of black wool pants – which at a glance looks like a t-shirt dress.
In between the transition of looks, all eyes were absolutely hooked on the accessories that spelt nothing but cutting-edge boldness: polished crocodile hides in riotous ombre colours; technical heeled pumps that look like a cross breed between a pump and a sneaker; and two-toned Lady Dior handbags that is akin to two handbags being put together.
Nonchalant coolness wrapped up the show with a number of sheer long evening dresses, richly embroidered in gleaming threads and paired with knitted off-white t-shirts.
Dior – G28, Indulge Floor, Starhill Gallery, 181 Jalan Bukit Bintang, 55100 Kuala Lumpur