Lady Spring Goes Punk Gothic ... Louis Vuitton SS2014 Collection

When a fashion designer comes out a collection doused in nothing but funereal black, could it be a hint that he or she is bidding adieu to the fashion house where he/she’s been serving for decades? 

Probably yes and that’s what Marc Jacobs did for his latest spring/summer 2014 collection presentation for Louis Vuitton at the recent Paris Fashion Week. 

It is official that Marc Jacobs is leaving Louis Vuitton to give more focus on his own label. But there’s a silver lining to it: Frenchman Nicolas Ghesquiere has been announced as Jacobs’ new successor at the maison. 

Rest assured, fans could look forward to experiencing a new take on Louis Vuitton’s artistry and heritage based on Ghesquiere’s point of view.

At the show, two distinctive personas, divided by different timelines, emerged as the collection was unveiled piece by piece to the curious fashion editors and fans alike – Cher circa 1980s and Miley Cyrus circa 2013 (also known as the “Bangerz” era). 

Why Cher and Miley? The answer is simple: Cher used to rock the punk gothic look back in the 80s and 90s when Tom Cruise was her boyfriend.

In fact, anyone – especially die-hard fans of Cher like yours truly – can tell you there is a faint semblance between the looks sashayed by the 20-something faces and the outrageous Bob Mackie confection that the singer/actress wore during the 1988 Academy Awards – the same night she took home her first Oscar for her role in “Moonstruck”. 

On the other hand, Miley as we can see are trying so hard to make punk the new glam. Save for the sticking out tongue, there’s a big probability that Ms Cyrus will be stocking these looks inside her massive walk-in wardrobe as the elements present in this collection suits her current vibe too well. 

Furthermore, the spring/summer collection too juxtaposes some of Jacob’s previous works; hence it can be aptly seen as his retrospective of works throughout his long tenure with the storied French maletier and maison du mode.

The show opened with Autsralian model Edie Campbell in nude body suit, hand-scribbled with Louis Vuitton Paris all over it – an allusion to Jacob’s collaboration with Stephen Sprouse many seasons ago. 

On her head is a headpiece made of ostrich plumes, designed by renowned milliner Stephen Jones. The same headpiece was also spotted on the retinue of other models throughout the presentation of the 41 looks.

While the colour scheme may be off from the traditional spring/summer colour scheme that emphasises on bold and bright tones, the dominant black certainly creates an austere yet distinctive mood for those who are seeking to stand out from the crowd – an absolute choice for the true style makers. 

Abound with New York Street influence, the spring/summer collection is laden with outlandish pieces such as luxurious Mongolian lamb rugs, heavily embellished biker jackets, and faded blue denim worn underneath sheer tulle tank dresses that are heavily peppered with flapper spirit (think heavy art deco-esque embellishments). Lots of plumage could be seen adorning the shoulders while meticulous patchworks go with the manly blazers.

Though the ‘mature’ generation of Louis Vuitton customers may gasp as they have been accustomed to the previous collections that were “adult-friendly” compared to the current “Miley-friendly” collection, the pieces are absolutely wearable for everyone. 

For instance, the boucle jacket with plumage embellishments does look great on a 40-year old fashionista if she ditches the outrageous headpiece and maybe, pair it with a pair of subtle palazzo trousers in the same colour. 

Ditto a two-piece pantsuit with heavy embellishments on the shoulders and around the waistline with light volumes for a 50-plus partygoer as long as she does not literally copy the look in its entirety. Well, unless if she’s attending a Halloween or a costume themed party, that is.    

Like the clothes, the accessories too are heavily embellished with influences of Gothic Lolita. The sizes are rather small and slouchy, followed by flat strapped boots. The Louis Vuitton spring/summer 2014 ready-to-wear collection will be available at selected Louis Vuitton stores worldwide next year.

*Photos by Style.com

Louis Vuitton - 181 Jalan Bukit Bintang, G19 & 23, Indulge Floor, Starhill Gallery, Kuala Lumpur; Suria KLCC Kuala Lumpur City Centre, Lot G26 A - C, Ground Floor, Kuala Lumpur; Ground Floor, The Gardens Mid Valley, Lingkaran Syed Putra, 59200 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia ‎