Friday, 22 June 2012
Wild East West ... Roberto Cavalli Resort 2013 Collection
I can’t remember when was the last time I reviewed Roberto Cavalli’s collection. But truth be told, I do miss the overt and pomp display of sensuality and sexuality that used to thrive in his collections, either major or resort.
That sexy bodysuit with elongated flared sleeves in camouflage print silk chiffon from spring/summer 2005, and the ever iconic autumn/winter 2005 Ming vase print mermaid dress, which was effortlessly rocked by the likes of Victoria Beckham, Anggun and Malaysian socialite Princess Zarina, still remain fresh in my mind.
These two pieces, to me, truly hallmarked Roberto Cavalli style, as well as his renowned position as the respected arbiter of clothes that dare women to unhide their sexual appeal, further encouraging them to cross the invisible thin line between sensuality and vulgarity without an ounce of fear.
For Resort 2013, fans of the highly coveted Ming vase prints will be absolutely delighted as Cavalli is bringing back the print. Furthermore, the designer has combined the classic porcelain prints with nuances of the tough Wild West dressing. Perhaps, the wardrobe of the late Katherine Hepburn, as well as his previous autumn/winter 2005 collection — with the printed body-cinching mermaid dress as the etoile majeur of the season — might have been Cavalli’s point of reference for the resort season.
Though at a glance, the print may look more like one of those archetypal European porcelain prints, you still can feel the elegance of that hallmarked print. Classic porcelain colours of China blue and purple made their ubiquitous presence on almost fifty percent of the collection, followed by plethora of bold floral prints splashed against black milieu, a dash of animal print (think sexy but decent playsuit in zebra and monochrome tiger print babydoll dress) and solid hues such as black, baby blue, navy blue, and a tinge of off-white.
Cavalli used arresting feminine silhouettes to accentuate the wearers’ figure such as straight lines that beautifully run along the legs, providing beautiful illusion of slender, long and model-esque legs; some sharp but soft tailoring with printed lapels on the jackets, and liberal application of pleats. Missing from this collection is of course, the generous amount of cutouts that used to be one of Cavalli’s highly recognised design styles.
Though the dresses are all made with short above-the-knee length hemlines, the skirts are long and mostly paired with jackets, alluding to how women of the Wild West period dressed.
In this collection, it seems like the designer is trying to convince his fans to create an extra ordinary look out of something traditional.
Case in point: Porcelain print tuxedo jacket with slim lapels in solid black, worn with a pair of matching flared pants, rather than the conventional straight tuxedo pants. Ah, the ever stylish late Jacqueline Kennedy would surely adopt this style and strut it with pride on the red carpet if she were with us today.
Roberto Cavalli Resort 2013 collection is expected to reach all Roberto Cavalli stores and selected mixed brand retailers worldwide by the third quarter of the year.
*Photos by Style.com/Roberto Cavalli
Roberto Cavalli — G31A, 31B 25, Ground Floor, Pacific Place, SCBD Jl. Jend. Sudirman Kav. 52-53, Jakarta Selatan 12190 Indonesia; Plaza Senayan GF. Jl. Asia Afrika No.8, Jakarta Selatan, DKI Jakarta 10270.