Friday, 16 July 2010

No Frills But Extra Thrills ... Marc Jacobs FW2010-11

Looks like the overrated 80s has ended its rein at Marc Jacobs and Grace Jones is now out of the picture. Stashing riotous colours, edgily-coiffed hair and ‘Jem/The Misfits’-inspired makeup, Jacobs substituted the 80s essentials with mixed style references, dating way back to as early as the 40s and up to the 90s.

In a nutshell, there is nothing fancy about Marc Jacobs’ fall/winter 2010-11 collection: the working palette is transitional – from muted hues to a bit lively – no bodysuits and no ornate detailing (except for the prevalent fur trimmings and one sequin-drenched shift dress). More or less, it can be said that for this season’s ready-to-wear collection, Jacobs is
playing on the safe side.

And that safe side can be loosely translated as creating pieces that sell and really appeal to women – or his loyal fans - which are now (and not so surprisingly) ten times thriftier than they used to be, thanks to the ambivalent global economic situation. Kick starting the New York show last February on a minimalist runway was model Tati Cotliar in a minimal ensemble of grey top with short batwing sleeve and ribbed hem, worn with a matching knee-length skirt.

So minimal that I bet some of the fashionistas were quite surprised when the look debuted on the runway. Even though I wasn’t there, I could imagine hearing one of them saying, “That is so not Marc Jacobs honey, na’ah” with one finger waving.
Next, model Joan Smalls walked on the runway with a long gray dress with above-the-ankle hem and topped with a smartly tailored jacket – which reminds me of the typical American working girls back in the olden days.

The jacket’s shoulder slanted nicely on her shoulders while the furry chain-strapped leather handbag with gilded padlock added a little, if not some pizzazz to the look. The style spirits of Jacqueline Kennedy (circa 1960s) and Hollywood starlet Veronica Lake were strongly felt in some of the pieces previewed at the first set, such as the collared and belted shift, fur-trimmed trench coats, mohair trimmed skirt suit and a girlish black broderie anglaise dress topped with a furry fur shrug. Aside from black and grey, a dash of neutral hues was also sprinkled into the working palette.

Practicality remains dominant up till the second set with effortless ensembles like black short-sleeved top worn with sheer striped long skirt; loose boyfriend blazer over grey dress; shiny greyish tie-front blouse with belt and tailored long coat on top paired with printed long skirt and printed sweater wit
h rounded hem and monotonous printed skirt. In the second and third sets, the offering is plusher and meant for women who have no qualms on draining their Swiss bank accounts for apparels that could keep them warm and nonchalantly glamorous throughout the two cold seasons. Not to mention a livelier working palette to top it all.

Perching high on the fashionistas ‘to buy’ list soon will be the belted peasant dress with attached apron; sheer long dress with ruffled hem in faint cornflower blue with elongated striped vest; sleeveless fur top and stole with velvet long pants and a splendid earthy-toned long wrap dress with luxurious fur lapels, just to list a few.

Culminating the show was a selection of articulately designed gowns with one of them being accented with a lucid and glittery fur-trimmed trench coat. Marc Jacobs’ fall/winter 2010 ready-to-wear and accessories collection will be available at Marc Jacobs’ boutiques, select multi-brand boutiques and department stores worldwide from September onwards.

*Photos by style.com


Marc Jacobs – Ground Floor, Suria KLCC; Jalan Ampang, 50088 Kuala Lumpur.

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