Haute Covet: Privé de Cartier collection

Since the introduction of its first men’s watch in 1904, Cartier has stirred a revolution within the haute horlogerie universe. 

The flat wristwatch with distinctive square bezel, designed for and named after Alberto Santos-Dumont, Brazil’s aviation pioneer and a friend of Louis Cartier, paved way for the creation of other iconic timepieces by Cartier such as the emblematic Panthére de Cartier, the Tank series and the Crash watch, just to list a few.

At the recent Salon International de Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) in Geneva, Switzerland – an annual exhibition that celebrates the artistry of fine watchmaking – Cartier showcased its Privé collection, a select curation of limited edition timepieces, dedicated to serious fine horlogerie collector and connoisseurs.

Before we delve further into the collection, let us recap the history of Cartier.

Founded in 1847 by Louis-François Cartier, the French jeweller began its business in the workshop of his former master Adolphe Picard, at Rue Montgueil in Paris. His first client was Princess Mathilde, the niece of French emperor Napoleon I and cousin to Emperor Napoleon III. In 1899, under the helm of his grandson Louis, Cartier moved its business to Rue de la Paix and expanded its presence worldwide, purveying high profile clients including Duchess of Windsor, Hollywood star Elizabeth Taylor and Mexican actress Maria Felix, with dazzling high and fine jewellery, timepieces and exquisite objet d’arts.

To a layman, a watch is always a watch. That said, what makes Privé by Cartier a distinctive collection?

Privé can be summed up as an homage to the maison’s iconic timepieces. Its creation came after the introduction of reinterpretation of Cartier’s two celebrated models – the Crash in 2015 and Tank Cintrée two years later. The collection also employs ground-breaking technology that serves the exacting requirements of design, movements and calibres.

There is something intriguing about the Tonneau watch – especially its unusual shape. What’s the story behind it?

Released in 1906 – two years after the creation of Santos de Cartier - Tonneau, which means ‘barrel’ in French, is named due to the unusual shape of the watch. In the early 20^th century, the common shapes for wristwatches were round, square or rectangular. But Cartier went against the odds by employing the unique barrel outline to its timepiece. Another novel feature of the watch is Cartier had it coated with platinum – another way to emphasis Tonneau’s novelty when most of the wristwatches and pocket watches’ casings at the time were made of gold.  

What is the difference between present Tonneau and its 1906 predecessor?

For 2019 edition, Cartier had redesigned its hours and minutes model. The two brackets in pink gold or platinum create an oblong, curved shape that follows the natural contours of the wearer’s wrist. The polished, rhodium-plated roman numerals stands out magnificently, either against the champagne-hued dial in pink gold version or silvered in the platinum version. Catering to the modern-day demands, the watch is also water-resistant.   

Watches with full casing don’t impress me much. I’m looking for a truly outstanding piece that is a distinctive work of art. In other words, I like my watches complicated.

Then perhaps, the Skeletal Dual Time Zone Tonneau watch is the right choice for you! Featuring skeletal composition, the watch is modelled after the Tonneau XL dual time zone model in the CPCP collection. As its name (dual time zone) suggests, the watch boasts two separate mechanisms – one for home time zone and the other one is for the second time zone.

From the look of it, one can tell that that the expert watchmakers must have taken long man hours to craft this complicated watch.

Yes, indeed. To craft this watch, Cartier craftsmen have to perform two complex feats – first is to retain the casing's elongated form where all the wheels of the geartrain had to be aligned between 12 and 6 o’clock. Next, to ensure wearer’s comfort, the shape of the movement is also modified by curving it to fit within the curved contours of the Tonneau casing as well as the curve of the wrist. The watch movement is then skeletonised to bring both lightness and nobility together in a traditional complication.

How does one set the second time zone with the Skeleton Dual Time Zone Tonneau watch?

To set the second time zone, just press the crown at 4 o’clock and the time will jump by an hour.

Other distinctive features that make the Tonneau or any cartier watch distinctive?  

As a storied maison, every Cartier timepiece is made with according to Cartier’s exceptional watchmaking codes such as the usage of roman numerals, a railtrack, cabochons in bright hues on the winding crown, the use of natural leather strap and screws on the lugs.

Since the Privé collection is made in limited numbers, how many pieces are made for both classic Tonneau and Skeleton Dual Time Zone Tonneau watches?

For Tonneau in platinum casing with grey alligator strap, only 100 pieces have been made. As for the Skeleton Dual Time Zone version, only 100 pieces are available for both Skeleton Dual Time Zone Tonneau in platinum with blue and black alligator leather straps and pink gold with grey and burgundy alligator leather straps. There are also 20 numbered pieces, available in the baguette-cut diamond-set platinum series.

Since this is a great investment, tell me what’s the price and where can I buy them?

For pricing and availability, you can visit your nearest Cartier boutiques around the world or simply visit www.cartier.com for more information.

*Photos by Olivier Arnaud, courtesy of Cartier.

Cartier – Lot 2.12.00 & 3.14.00, Level 2 & 3, Pavilion, 168 Jalan Bukit Bintang, 55100 Kuala Lumpur.