Musée Yves Saint Laurent Marrakech Is Open Now!
Marrakech forever holds a special place in the heart of French couturier and fashion visionary,
the late Yves Saint Laurent. When he first visited Morocco in 1966, the fashion
designer immediately fell in love with the city and its medieval charm.
Moreover, it also marked a new chapter to his designing career, especially in the haute couture scene: He bought a house in Marrakech and the country and its colourful yet mystical culture soon became his muse. From that on, he would travel to the city and stay there for a fortnight on 1st of December and 1st of June each year to design his haute couture collections.
Like other
museums, the Musée Yves Saint Laurent Marrakech too holds a host of activities
within its temporary exhibition hall and photography gallery. Currently ongoing
is the inaugural exhibition by artiste Jacques Majorelle entitled "Jacques Majorelle's Morocco".
Moreover, it also marked a new chapter to his designing career, especially in the haute couture scene: He bought a house in Marrakech and the country and its colourful yet mystical culture soon became his muse. From that on, he would travel to the city and stay there for a fortnight on 1st of December and 1st of June each year to design his haute couture collections.
“In
Morocco, I realised that the range of colours I use was that of the zelliges, zouacs, djellabas and
caftans. The boldness seen since then in mi work, I owe to this, to its
forceful harmonies, to its audacious combinations, to the fervour of its
creativity,” he said back in 1983. “This culture became mine, but I wasn’t
satisfied with absorbing it. I took, transformed and adapted it.”
Though it
has been nine years since the great couturier passed away at the age of 72, his
spirit remains at large and his design aesthetics have been used as the source
of inspiration to the new and booming generation of designers. Nevertheless,
Saint Laurent himself would be happy to know that today, his masterpieces will
be studied by this generation and the ones after it up to the next 100 years.
All thanks to the establishment of the Musée Yves Saint Laurent Marrakech.
Located in
a street named after the man himself – Rue Yves Saint Laurent – Marrakech is
certainly the ideal city for a museum dedicated to him to be built, besides the
one in Paris at 5 Avenue Marceau.
“When Yves
Saint Laurent first discovered Marrakech in 1966, he was so moved by the city
that he immediately decided to buy a house here, and returned regularly,” said
long-time partner Pierre Bergé who passed away in September. “It feels perfectly
natural, fifty years later, to build a museum dedicated to his oeuvre, which
was so inspired by this country.”
The museum can
be easily recognised from the YSL logo at its entrance and a façade that appears
as an intersection of cubes with a lace-like covering of bricks, creating
patterns that recall the weft and warp of fabric.
Within the expansive span of
over 4,000m², the museum features a 400m² permanent exhibition space showcasing
Saint Laurent fashion works; a temporary exhibition space; a research library
with over 6,000 volumes; a 150-seat auditorium known as the Pierre Bergé
Auditorium; a bookstore and a café terrace. The museum was designed by Studio
KO, an established architectural firm founded by Olivier Marty and Karl
Fourier.
“The Musée
Yves Saint Laurent Marrakech combines two worlds that we are very familiar with
and that are dear to our hearts: Fashion and Morocco,” commented the studio
founders.
“Since the founding of our architectural firm, we have worked in this
country that so inspired Yves Saint Laurent. It is with great joy that we have
worked on this ambitious project and contributed in our way to the history and
prestige of the most influential fashion designer of the 20th
century,” they continued.
In the main
hall where the permanent exhibition is located, 50 masterpieces have been
chosen from the collection and displayed around themes that are dear to Saint
Laurent – Masculine/Feminine, Black, Africa and Morocco, Imaginary Voyages,
Gardens and Art – highlighted against minimal black background. The stylish
voyage is created by the museum scenographer Christophe Martin and offers an
original interpretation of the couturier’s work using garments that, until now,
have rarely been seen by the public.
The
displayed pieces will be rotated regularly to ensure their conservation and to
constantly revive the exhibition. Accompanying the displayed masterpieces are
immersive audio visual elements such as sketches, photographs, runway shows,
films, voices and music that work as a dialogue to reveal what is behind the
couturier’s creative process.
March to
the second floor, bookworms will be extremely thrilled by the exceptional
collection of rare books with some dating back to the 17th century!
Look
forward to reading and consulting tomes on Morocco, the kingdom’s history,
literature and arts as well as volumes on other subjects ranging from fashion
right to worldwide literature.
Aspired to
follow the footsteps of legendary fashion illustrator and designer Christian
Bérard, Saint Laurent once expressed his intention “to be involved in several things
that in reality are one: stage design and costumes; decors and sketches for the
theatre.” In the theatre lobby, one can see the important works done by him for
the theatre, ballet, cabaret and the cinematic sphere. They are in the forms of
selected sketches, drawings and photographs of the costumes he designed for the
likes of Jean Marais, Zizi Jeanmaire, Arletty, Jeanne Moreau, Isabelle Adjani
and one of his closest friends, Catherine Deneueve.
The
exhibition purveys Moroccan and international fine art lovers a chance to view 30
important works by the artiste depicting his fascination for the beautiful and
authentic medina of Marrakech, the surrounding rural areas and the country’s
medieval Kasbahs. These artworks have been graciously lent by private and
institutional Moroccan collections.
In the
Photography gallery, the inaugural exhibition by photographer André Rau entitled
“Thirty Years of the Fashion House in Marrakech” offers a profound perspective
on Yves Saint Laurent and his muse, French silver screen goddess Catherine
Deneuve in a harmonious setting. The photos were shot in places that were dear
to him such as Jemaa el Fna Square and the interior of his home, the Villa
Oasis. These photos have been featured in the French edition of Elle Magazine
back in 1992.
“One day while shooting, Yves Saint Laurent
spoke to me of his love for Marrakech, of the colours and light found there,
and its art of living. He also spoke passionately about the Jardin Majorelle
and his tranquil villa where he would design his collections,” Rau recalled his
experience with the couturier. “In 1992, when I was contacted by Anne-Marie Perrier
– at the time Editor in Chief of Elle Magazine (France) – and asked to record
the 30th anniversary of the YSL fashion house, Marrakech immediately came to
mind. The element of surprise is very important in photography. One doesn’t
expect to see Catherine Deneuve in an out-of-the-way barber shop, or dressed in
‘le smoking’ in the middle of a teeming marketplace.”
Now, with
1,000 couture garments and accessories that are usually climate-sensitive and
highly prized as well as 3,000 non-exhibited pieces from the nearby Berber
Museum at the Jardin Majorelle, how do the museum safeguard these pieces from
theft and in their pristine condition? The answer lies in its most demanding
preventive conservation norms.
Conceptualised
by preventive conservation consultant Véronique Monier, the museum employs an elaborate
technical system that anticipates, prevents and hinders the natural
deterioration or accidents that could age or damage the works.
These norms
guarantee that the pieces remain in an optimal state of conservation and are
tailored to create a controlled environment that takes the local climate into
account. A span of 700m² space within the museum is devoted to the conservation
department with a specific space being set aside to receive garments, textiles
or objects when they arrive at the museum.
What’s
more, the received items are required to undergo strict conservation procedures, on par to what is currently employed by museums across the world. These
procedures will be ran inside their respective rooms.
Apart from the
procedure-specific rooms, the conservation department also includes permanent
storage spaces to house the collections. Every area is equipped with
custom-made storage units that can be moved along rails, a system known as ‘compactus’,
where the pieces that form the collection are classified and stored according
to type.
After
completing your journey through Yves Saint Laurent’s monde de mode et merveilles (world of fashion and wonders), take
home a tome or two from the museum’s bookstore.
Fashioned after Saint Laurent’s
Rive Gauche store in Paris, the bookstore is filled with books and films that
inspired Yves Saint Laurent, including cinematic masterpieces by Luchino
Visconti or In Search of Lost Time by Marcel Proust, which evoke an ideal
library and private film archive at the couturier’s home.
Also on display is a
selection of re-edited jewellery by Loulou de La Falaise – the legendary
jewellery and accessories designer at the Yves Saint Laurent fashion house. You
can also enjoy an array of traditional Moroccan and inventive French dishes
made using local ingredients and produce of high quality.
The Musée
Yves Saint Laurent Marrakech is open daily from 10 a.m. to 6 pm.m and closes on
Wednesday. The entrance fee is 100DH for tourists and 60DH for Moroccan
citizens and residents.
*Photos courtesy of Musée Yves Saint Laurent
Marrakech
Musée Yves Saint
Laurent Marrakech
- Rue Yves Saint Laurent, 40090
Marrakech, Morocco. Call +212 (0)5 24 29 86 86 or
visit www.museeyslmarrakech.com for more details.
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