Bulgari Manufacture: Bringing Watchmaking Art To Life

Bulgari and Rome has one certain thing in common – they weren’t built in a day. 

Like the eternal city, built by the Roman Empire a thousand years ago, it took more than 100 years for Bulgari to be where it is today – a venerated Italian maison synonymous with contemporary luxury lifestyle. And like the maison itself, Bulgari products too aren’t made within one day nor by a single craftsman.

Take Bulgari’s renowned Serpenti timepiece collection for instance. Behind its serpentine grace and delicacy of the precious stones adorning the head of the mystical serpent is a surprising trivia that will amaze you: It takes not one but 350 personnel across various roles to create the timepiece! 

From design to development of the mechanical movement and up to the production of its cases and bracelets, all is done within Bulgari’s own plant that is nestled in Switzerland – the heart of global watchmaking sphere.

To date, Bulgari, via Manufacture Bulgari, is one of few exceptional brands that possesses the global mastery of the multiple processes involved in its watchmaking sector. Thanks to vertical integration, Bulgari has been able to acquire all the essential skills required to craft a complete watch by setting up a production division. 

The pool is spread over several manufacturing sites with e Sentier for manufacturing the Grande Complication, Solotempo calibre assembly and production as well as the ultra-thin Finissimo movements; Saignelégier for the manufacturing of gold and steel cases as well as bracelets; and La-Chaux-de-Fonds for the manufacturing of high-end dials. The assembly and final controls on the other hand are done in Neuchâtel.  

Mechanical movement is the heart of watchmaking. It is also the most crucial part of watchmaking as sophisticated horological complications are oftentimes complex and require profound knowledge and know-how. Whether ultra-thin hand-wound or self-winding movements, these stringent requirements are applied to the entire range of manufacturing so highest standards of excellence can be met successfully. 

Moreover, complexity of production also applies on other facets of the timepiece such as the case, dial and the bracelets. At Bulgari, these elements are subject to the same rigorous demands throughout the processes involved in their production. Just as with a high-end movement, the expertise required to produce extremely high-end dials is also very refined and implies a set of skills underpinned by a precious value: experience.

Like its range of complicated watches, craftsmanship plays an important role too in the making of jewellery watches. The jewelled elements of the jewellery watches are crafted either in Valenza, where the Bulgari jewellery manufacturing plant is located or in Bulgari’s High Jewellery workshop in Rome, depending on the products’ features and preciousness. 

Using traditional lost-wax casting technique, every piece are crafted by expert goldsmiths with utmost care and attention, starting from cleaning, assembling and right to finishing the metal elements (bracelet and stone-set cases). 

Other parts where attention to details are crucial include the setting of gems. This is to ensure that all gems are firmly anchored in place. This is done in Neuchâtel, where the movement is encased and the final quality control is carried out.

With a great amount of complexity involved in creating a single Bulgari watch, it is apt to say that a Bulgari timepiece is always a smart style investment to make and a great heirloom that will last for generations.  

*Photos courtesy of Bulgari

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