The Chapeau of Change ... Halston Heritage Pre-Fall 2015 Collection

June 07, 2015

The Chapeau of Change ... Halston Heritage Pre-Fall 2015 Collection

Oftentimes, when it comes to working in an established fashion house such as Halston, it is easier for the creative director or the head designer to conceive collections without putting too much effort.

Reason being there is a thing that we call the archive —a magic wardrobe where ideas and inspiration lives.

With just a little conjuring, they will hop out of the domain and jump into the designer’s mind and voila, a full collection is ready to cut, sewn and serve on the runway.

Yet, although the Pre-Fall collection retains the essence of Halston design, one can see the difference in this one. The approach is sharper; simple and very much straightforward. In a way, through my personal observation, I could say that Maria Mazelis’ approach is meant for women who are often on the move.

However, no matter how busy they are in the day, by sundown, they still have adequate time to cut the snaking beeline into the legendary Studio 54 and party till dawn with Roy and his celebrated ilk.

For the 2015 pre-fall collection, Mazelis uses a pale blue feather “wig hat” that Halston created for New York’s iconic department store Bergdorf Goodman in 1960s.

For the uninitiated, prior to launching his first ready-to-wear collection that resulted rave reviews by the fashion media and fashion buyers alike, Halston began his career in fashion as a milliner at Bergdorf Goodman.

If you searched in YouTube for Barbra Streisand’s My Name is Barbra TV special (1965) shot at the department store, you may find his millinery works within the background as the singer sang a medley of songs, strutting in the latest designer offerings of the period.

Back to the collection review. Using the feather as the main point of reference for the collection, Mazelis re-envisioned the fluffiness of the feathers in silk prints as all-over textures in modern panelled dresses and skirts. The patterns are also blown up to exaggerated proportions as graphic border motifs on delicate scarves.

Doused in luminous palette ranging from softness of the peach to the porcelain-esque Ginger Rose, sage, moss, flint, rich port and icy rain blue, all symbolises beautiful transition of the season from summer to the beginning of fall. Detailing such as rich sequins in subtle bisque hue adds sassiness into the day and evening looks.

Sharp and smart silhouette conquers the day with clean and neat proportions as seen in jackets, high necked dress with front slit, three-quartered sleeved top, leather vests and palazzo pants. The culottes feature angular silhouette with square pleats and front pockets, a classic yet non-seasonal piece that can be worn regardless of seasons.

Crafted in silk twill and supple suede with occasional tinges of bold prints, the culottes, when paired with slim blouses, body-skimming camisoles and mock neck knits alludes the effortless spirit of 1970s model and silver screen goddess Ali MacGraw.

However, it is always the dresses and the caftans that draws women to the appeal of Halston. Often regarded by the editors as the ultimate beacon of contemporary style, the fluid chiffon dresses with billowy skirts certainly speak of sensuality and utmost allure.

This season, look forward to classic Halston silhouettes such as one shoulder dress in seducing rose ginger tinge, crafty printed dress with square panels design, asymmetrical suede dress, printed silk dress with spaghetti straps, printed over-the-knee hemmed dress in chiffon with one-shoulder inner lining and scarf-like rear extension as well as the must have plunging V-necked long dress with ombré hemmed skirt.

To complement your Pre-Fall look, add in some accessories in the form of classic two-toned bucket bag, two-toned oversized shopping bag, long-strapped handbag, top handle handbag in suede with bark effect patent leather detail and silvery galuchat textured box clutch.

Halston Heritage Pre-Fall 2015 collection is available now at all Halston Heritage stores and selected mixed brands retailers worldwide.