An Italian Primavera ... Dolce & Gabbana SS2014

Three keywords flew across my mind as I viewed this collection ― the Primavera painting by Sandro Botticelli, Italian silver screen siren and fashion icon Sophia Loren, and Rob Marshall’s “Nine”, a musical flick starring Daniel-Day Lewis, Marion Cotillard, Penelope Cruz, Sophia herself and Fergie of the Black Eyed Peas. 

In the past, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana have taken their ardent fans on a globe-trotting journey across the five continents through troves of magnificent clothes and accessories, referenced from the amalgamation of cultures of the world.

However, in the recent years, the duo has returned to their Sicilian roots, using its steep heritage as reference to their collections and the advertising campaigns. 

While the Sicilian influence may remain part of the brand’s design DNA, the spring/summer 2014 collection sees Dolce & Gabbana turning to the storied days of the ancient Italy – the time when Rome was the centre of Roman civilisation and its vast empire as inspiration or design point-of-reference.

Sporting nymph-esque coifs that allude to the beauty of ancient Roman goddesses (think Venus) and playful nymphs that graced the Renaissance oil paintings, 77 distinctive pieces were showcased on the runway to cognoscenti of fashion editors, journalists, buyers and loyal Dolce & Gabbana fans alike. 

Antiquated nuances in the forms of black-and-white toned photographs of ancient historical sites and old coins dating back to the glorious Roman civilisation are richly juxtaposed with plethora of subtle spring flowers, classic polka dots and silhouettes of the past such as the 50s and the 60s. At a glance, anyone could have imagined that the models that walked along the stage were the new incarnations of Sophia Loren!

Skirt suits are tailored to perfection in dainty lace; car coats – the style staple of the 50s and 60s – are given double-breasted treatment with gilded buttons; and sleeves and hems are billow and trimmed with watercolour floral skirting. 

Another Sicilian attribute that roams within the collection is the presence of lingerie-esque bra top and skirt with exquisite lace trimming. Hues such as gold, black, red, green and earthly tones of beige and brown made the bulk of the working palette for this collection.  

Luxurious materials such as patent leather, chiffon, furs, and brocades are thoroughly used in this collection. 

Every material is creatively worked with a dash of exquisite detailing, such as three-dimensional floral appliqués, unique embellishments such as gold coins and furs that are treated to be as soft and fluffy as the clouds on a cloudy day. 

Even fringes are making their comeback on the Dolce & Gabbana runway in the form of a multi-tiered fringed dress worn with big gold coin buckled belt.

To bring the Roman spring looks alive, several classic – or iconic – accessories have made their triumphant return into the trend such as wicker bags, platform heels adorned with antiquated Roman coins, golden belts with big gold coin as buckles, buttery soft top-handled leather bags and richly decorated hoop earrings.

Dolce & Gabbana’s spring/summer 2014 ready-to-wear and accessories collection will be available at Dolce & Gabbana stores and select departmental stores early next year.

*Photos by Style.com

Dolce & Gabbana - #01-21, 02-11, Ion Orchard, 2 Orchard Turn  Singapore 238801; Grand Indonesia, Jl.MH Thamrin No.1 East Mall Ground Floor 06-08, Jakarta, Indonesia; 991, Siam Paragon Shopping Center Pathumwan, Bangkok, Thailand.